Barker's Official Blog

Barker's Sponsored Rider, Juan Domingeuz Ready To Win SCORE International San Felipe 250

Imagine navigating through more than 250 miles of tough terrain that's mangled with rocks and sand, and temperatures exceeding 100°F.

2017 San Felipe Course Map

Now, imagine conquering all of this in less than 12 hours on the top of a quad. The Score International San Felipe 250 may be the shortest of SCORE's race series, with the Baja 1000 boasting 850 miles of similar off-road conditions, but it is certainly a challenge for many a man and his machine. Attempting to race any machine over 250 miles in under 12 hours with some of the craziest rocky, sandy whoops, and extreme conditions around is no joke. We don't know about you, but it seems like you would have to be one dedicated and skilled individual to take on such a race.

Barker's Performance is proud to have a man such as this on our Sponsored Riders roster. For Juan Dominguez, this will be his 8th time racing the San Felipe 250. We reached out to him to learn more about this year's race and a little more about him and his team. Here's what we learned.

The team and I are getting ready for our 8th San Felipe 250 in a row. The San Felipe 250 is the shortest race of the SCORE International series however, it is the roughest due to its never-ending rocky/sandy whoops. I was down there pre-running this past weekend and the course is already chewed up and temperatures were over 100 degrees! The course will only get rougher in these two weeks leading up to the race.

We will be competing in the competitive sportsman quad class since I had to put a last minute team together. I will be teaming up with a couple guys from our Baja 1000 rival team, Oskar Espinoza and Osman Arce from Ensenada, Baja California. The San Felipe 250 will be starting Saturday, April 1st at sunrise and will have 12 hours to navigate through the rough, 272-mile race course SCORE has put together.

The San Felipe 250 is not new for Pirruñas Racing since it will be our 8th time running it. We have been lucky enough to podium this race about 4 times with one of them being a 1st place finish. We are going to rely on our Barker’s Exhaust to power us through the deep sandy whoops and the never sandy washes San Felipe has to offer. We will be racing a Liberty Motorsports/ Baja ATV Rider’s Only prepped Honda TRX450r.

The team is hungry to win this year’s San Felipe 250. We have been getting ourselves ready mentally and physically the past couple of months and are going for the top spot. We are confident heading into this race since we have a strong group of riders, reliable support crew, and the best sponsors in off-road racing to get us to the finish line on top. But this is Baja, anything can happen at any given time. We are preparing for the worst and expecting the unexpected!

Thanks for all the support Barker's Exhaust!

So there you have it! Stay tuned for more updates on the 2017 San Felipe 250 and the Pirruñas Racing Team! We will add photos and commentary to our blog and social media as it comes across the wire. 

We love desert racing! 

Want to learn more about a Barker's Exhaust for a Honda TRX450? Click one of the links below.

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Why we're really excited for the ATV MX National Championship

It's that time of year again. The ATV MX National Championship begins tomorrow and we are beyond excited for this year's competition. Here's why.

What is more exciting than dedicated and skilled ATV racers going head to head race after race for a big win and recognition? Aside from life's greatest milestones, nothing! The ATV MX National Championship is a true test of man and machine, will and skill. We love to see which machines pull ahead of the pack, and how racers handle their machines under tough race conditions. 

This year we are especially excited because we have the great pleasure of having two teams running our exhaust this year.   

Team Nine6Nine Travis Moore giving Alan Myers some pointers before the race

Team Nine6Nine is ready to wage a war this year at the MX National Championship and we are thrilled to have a rider on their team racing with a Barker's Exhaust. Team Nine6Nine member, Alan Myers, #24, will be competing in the Pro Sport/Pro-Am classes on his Suzuki LTR 450. Last year, Myers won the National MX Championship in the 450A class and has since moved up to compete in the Pro-Sport and Pro-Am classes. With Travis Moore to help lead the team to another victory, we are sure Alan and all Team Nine6Nine racers will have a very exciting and fruitful season. 

The Harris Motorsports Team is another team participating in the ATV MX National Championship that will be riding with a Barker's Exhaust. Zack Harris will be racing a YFZ 450 in the Pro-Am class. 

Be sure to stay tuned and follow along with us throughout the championship. We will be regularly updating our blog and social media with race results and other exciting information. We can't wait to see what's in store for this year's ATV MX National Championship!

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Sponsored Rider, Juan Dominguez gears up for 2016 SCORE Baja 1000

Barker's Performance is extremely excited for November 16, 2016. This date marks the start of the 49th Bud Light SCORE Baja 1000 in Ensenada, Baja California, and Mexico. One of the toughest desert challenges out there, the Baja 1000 encompasses more than 850 miles of extreme desert conditions and obstacles. We are super lucky to have one of our very own sponsored rider's participating in the race, Juan Dominguez.

This race will not only be a true test of sheer might and skill for Juan Dominguez and his team, it will also brutally test our exhaust system in extreme desert conditions over a significant amount of time. We look forward to this race and the awesome results we expect both to achieve. 

We wanted to reach out to Juan to get his thoughts gearing up for the big race. Here's what we've learned. 

How have you been preparing to get ready for this race?

The team and I are very stoked for this years Baja 1000! This year's team consists of myself Juan Dominguez, Julio Banda from Mexicali, Rusty Repass from Maryland, Dan Webb from Virginia, and Alberto Jimenez from Mexicali.

We have been prepping mentally and physically for this race for the last couple of months. Our race quad (100A) was torn down and built from the frame and up. Liberty Motorsports rebuilt our entire motor and of course Barker's Exhaust will keep it running strong for the entire 854 miles! We start our pre-running this weekend so each rider can get to know their sections for when the green flag drops in a couple of weeks.  

What are your thoughts heading into the race?

This year's Baja 1000 should be a faster race course then the past years but anything can go wrong in 854 miles of off-road racing. To win you must first finish so preparation is key to get 100A across the finish line. SCORE has set up a very demanding race course with plenty of Baja obstacles to overcome.

What do you think will be your biggest challenge?

I think the biggest challenge in racing Baja is to not have any issues. Since we are racing against time, the less problems you run into the more of a chance you have to win. Our race plan needs to be executed perfectly in order for us to be on the top of the podium. We need to prepare for the worst and expect the best!

We will be posting updates from the big race on the Barker's Exhaust Facebook page so be sure to follow along if you don't already! You might also like to check out the 2016 SCORE Baja 1000 course map.

Want to learn more about Juan Dominguez?

Check out this awesome video interview from SCORE International.

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DIY Spring ATV Maintenance Tips

As the weather warms and you prepare to take to the trails or the track, remember that your ATV will need some love to perform it’s best.

2015 Yamaha Raptor 700 Spring Maintenance


Your ATV needs love all year round, but what you do now to prepare and maintain your ATV will affect it’s performance throughout the entire riding season. Spring is an excellent time to perform a full inspection of your machine to make sure it is in top riding condition and reduce the risk of running into an issue down the road. To help you get the most out of your machine, we’ve put together a list of ATV maintenance tips to help you fully inspect your machine after getting it out of storage.

Inspect Fuel System

  • Inspect Gas Tank & Fill Up
    • Gas goes bad. Overtime gasoline breaks down and can clog up carburetors or fuel lines. Hopefully, you prepped your machine’s gas tank prior to storage by adding a fuel additive or by draining it completely. Either way, be sure to look at your tank before you decide to ride. Check the tank for any floaters or rust particles. If you find some, drain the tank and thoroughly inspect it. If necessary clean it and refill it with fresh gas.
  • Inspect Carburetor
    • If your machine has a carburetor it will need to cleaned out from time to time and especially after sitting a while because it can cause build up in the float bowl. Go through and blow out the vent hoses and jets and spray the float bowl with carburetor cleaner. Before re-installing, check the intake boot for any dirt or debris and clean it out.

Check/Change Fluids & Filters

Spring is an excellent time to refresh the fluids in your machine and inspect some of those essential ATV parts affecting the performance of your machine. To get started, drain the existing fluids and inspect it for anything out of the ordinary. Below are a few things you should look for and consider. If you don’t notice anything, replace the fluids and continue on with the rest of your maintenance.

  • Check/Change Oil
    • The oil is the lifeblood of your machine. Checking and changing your oil regularly is critical to ensuring peak-performance throughout the riding season. Your oil collects dirt, debris, and little metal shavings as you run your machine and your engine wears. It’s good to have your oil changed before storage, but hey, we’re not all perfect. Give your ATV an oil change after storage and give your machine a fresh start to the riding season.
  • Check/Change Brake Fluid
    • Overtime brake fluid absorbs air and moisture and can get dirty. You should flush and replace your brake fluid if you notice issues with the color or consistency. Low brake fluid is a sign that your rotors may need replacing. 
  • Check/Change Coolant
    • Check the coolant for any signs of dirt and overheating. Coolant that has ran hot for long periods of time will change in color and start to produce a burnt odor. If you notice a milky consistency it is likely that your cooling system has been mixing with your oil system. If this is the case, you may be facing a not-so-fun repair bill. While you’re here check out the radiator and hoses too. A clogged radiator is a big problem so be sure to thoroughly inspect it.
  • Check/Change Transmission Fluid
    • If there is any project you want to avoid, it’s rebuilding the transmission. Regularly checking and replacing the transmission fluid will help to prevent this costly repair. When you inspect the transmission fluid it should be clear and look fresh. If it’s cloudy or dark in color it’s time to replace it. Low transmission fluid will cause wear and stress on your gears or clutch.
  • Replace/Clean Air Filter
    • Your machine’s air filter should be checked and maintained regularly throughout the riding season. Neglecting your air filter will ruin your machine as it will suck dirt particles into the engine and wear it out overtime. Prepping your machine after storage is an excellent time to check and clean or replace your air filter. After any day of riding, if you’re dirty, your air filter is likely to be dirty. Clean it up!

Inspect Tires

Check the tire treads and pressure before hitting the trail. Inspect the tires for any signs of wear or weakness. ATV tires operate at a much lower pressure level than your vehicle’s tires. A tire that loses pressure is a lot more likely to have the bead come off the rim. This causes a lot of wasted time out on the trail or worse, a serious accident. Protect your machine and your life. Check your tires!

Prep Battery

Maintaining your ATV’s battery should be addressed before and during the time your machine is in storage. To keep your battery going strong, here are few maintenance tips.

  • Remove the battery and clean the positive and negative posts with a mixture of water and baking soda to remove any corrosion.
  • Apply waterproof grease or Vaseline to the posts after reconnecting to prevent corrosion.
  • Does your battery require topping off? Wear safety gloves and goggles when servicing your battery and only use mineral free or distilled water to top it off.

Inspect Brakes

Spring is an excellent time to inspect your brakes. Do you have disc brakes? Take a look at your brake pads. If you cannot see the indicator marks, it’s time to replace the pads. If you also notice one brake pad having more wear than the others, it is likely your machine needs an alignment.

While you’re inspecting the brakes, be sure to check out the rotors. This would also be a good time to give them a nice scrub as this is a common site where dirt and debris build up. Heck, while you’re at it take a good look at your calipers and wheel bearings too. Check caliper seals and replace them when needed. Bad caliper seals will cause brake dragging or cause brake pressure loss. If you notice brake fluid build up in this area you’re already too late. Lubricating the caliper pins is also a good idea.

Check Front & Rear Differentials, and Suspension

Remember all those gnarly jumps you landed (or didn’t land) last year? How about those darn trees? Did you run into any of those? Now’s the time to check your machine’s toe-in. Start by parking your ATV on a level surface. Check the distance between the center of your right front tire to the center of the front left tire using a tape measure. Then check that measurement at the rear of your machine. Do those numbers compare? Check your ATV’s shop manual to find out what the correct measurements should be, and if you’ve installed an aftermarket front end you will need to check that company’s manual. Check out your suspension. Look for any loose or worn parts - grease if necessary.

Check/Replace Belts, Cables, Chains and Spark Plugs

  • Belts
    • Belts become stretched and worn over time so inspecting your ATV’s belts every now and then is a must. If you’ve noticed your machine not shifting as smoothly as it should, there’s a good chance the CV belt needs replacing.
  • Cables
    • Inspect your ATV’s cables for any frays or weakness. If you notice any issues replace the cables as soon as possible.
  • Chains
    • Do you have a chain-drive ATV? Check the chain for slack and adjust it according to your owner’s manual. Now’s a good time to do a little spring cleaning and scrub your chain and sprockets. A good old fashioned wire brush usually does the trick. While you’re at it inspect the sprocket’s teeth and make sure everything’s intact. Be sure replace any broken or worn sprockets. Once you’ve finished cleaning the chain, lube it up and see if the clutch is adjusted properly.
  • Spark Plug
    • If you want your ATV to perform it’s best, you have to maintain your spark plug. Your ATV’s fuel-air ratio is affected by the spark that ignites it. Check your plug for any corrosion or wear on its electrodes. If you see any you will definitely want to replace it. Your spark plug is also an indicator of your machine running too rich or lean, which may mean your fuel-air ratio isn't calibrated correctly. If you’ve got more than a full riding season under your belt, you might also want to replace it.

Grease Pivots and Bearings

Getting your ATV out of storage is a great time to get your machine loosened up. Greasing the bearing and pivots is a must. Here is a quick list to help you get your grease on.

    1. A-arm bushings and bearings
    2. Axle or carrier bearings
    3. Front hub bearings
    4. Pivot Bolt
    5. Steering stem bushing

Inspect Aftermarket Accessories

  • Maintain/Repack Aftermarket Exhaust
    • Aftermarket exhausts tend to be internally different from stock exhausts. Most, like Barker’s Exhaust Systems, will require repacking to keep your machine performing it’s best. After a full season of riding you might notice your exhaust getting louder and the can may appear to be getting hot. You may also notice bits being expelled from the rear of the exhaust. These are tell-tell signs that your packing, and potentially your inner core baffle, need to be replaced. Replacing the core packing materials inside will keep your machine sounding and performing as it should.
    • How To Repack Your Barker’s Exhaust
      • Repacking your Barker’s Exhaust System is a fairly simple task that should be done at least once a year. If you notice your exhaust is louder than usual or the color of your can is discolored, there’s a good chance the packing is too far gone.
      • To repack your system, remove the rivets securing the end cap to the exhaust can.
      • The inner core baffle should pull away and you can remove the old packing.
      • Wrap the new packing around the internal core baffle and secure with the included tape.
      • Slide the interior core back inside your exhaust can and secure the end cap.
    • Check/Replace Spark Arrestor and Quiet Core
      • If you have a spark arrestor or quiet core these will need to be checked for wear and tear and replaced every now and then as well.
      • If you ride in sound sensitive areas or areas regulating emissions, you will need to stay on top of checking and replacing these when needed.
      • You can purchase a Barker’s Replacement Spark Arrestor or Barker’s Quiet Core for your exhaust on our accessories page.

Check/Tighten Nuts and Bolts

You might be surprised but little things like the nuts and bolts on your machine can cause bigger problems than you may think. Here is a list of nuts and bolts you should be checking after storage and regularly throughout the riding season.

    1. Axle Nut - loose axles can wear out bearings and could end up wrecking the axle carrier
    2. Lug Nuts - lug nuts need to be properly torqued at all times, otherwise you could lose a wheel (and possibly a limb of your own) in an accident.
    3. Pivot Bolts - the pivot bolts hold your machine’s swing arm to its frame. Neglecting the pivot bolts could wear out you machine’s frame and bearings.
    4. Sprocket Bolts - continuous chain torque from riding your machine will loosen this bolt. Check for tightness regularly.
    5. Skid Plate Bolts - wear on your skid plate will loosen these bolts so check these bolts to ensure your plate stays in place.
    6. Wheel Hubs - loose hubs will wear out your ATV’s bearings and could eventually strip axle and hub splines.

Alright! You did it! Your ATV is prepped and ready for your best riding season yet. Make sure your registration is up to date and LET HER RIP!

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Inside Story: Juan Pirruñas Dominguez / Pirruñas Racing

If you’ve been following Barker’s Exhaust for the last year, you’ve probably noticed Juan Pirruñas Dominguez and the Pirruñas Racing Team. Juan partnered with Barker’s Performance as a sponsored rider in February 2015 and has since made quite an impression on us and the desert racing industry.

Sponsored Rider Snapshot

  • Racing Number: 9A 
  • ATV: Honda TRX450R
  • Age: 25
  • Occupation: Accountant
  • Hometown: Yuma, AZ
  • Started Racing: Age 17
  • First ATV: Yamaha Banshee

This year we watched as Juan and the Pirruñas Racing Team endured rigorous racing schedules and dominated extreme desert racing conditions. Because of Juan’s commitment to running our exhaust system on his machine, we have had the tremendous opportunity to learn more about desert racing and how our exhaust system performs under these conditions. We thank Juan and the Pirruñas Racing team for their continued dedication and support and we look forward to another year of outstanding performance!

Sponsored Rider Interview

We wanted to get to know Juan better and thought you might want to too, so we reached out to ask him a few questions about himself and the Pirruñas Racing Team. Here’s what he had to say: 

Q. Juan, you seem to be incredibly dedicated to racing. Can you tell us a little about your roots and how you got started in desert racing?

I got my first quad when I was 14 years old and my whole family was always into off-road racing and going to the dunes on the weekends. Since we live in the Sonoran Desert, I started to love riding out in the beautiful desert scenery that Yuma has to offer. After watching the documentary of the Baja 1000 " Dust to Glory," I saw there were quads participating and that's where my dream begun. I decided to attend the Baja 500 when I was 16 years old and absolutely got hooked on the Baja racing atmosphere!

Q. Clearly the Pirruñas Racing Team plays a big role in your racing career, can you tell us a little more about your team?

Pirruñas Racing started back in 2008 when we did our first ever CODE Offroad race right across the border in San Luis, Sonora. We raced a stock Raptor 660r and placed 7th out about 25 quads. The team consists of my brother and I who are trying to follow the same dream in being champions and maybe one day pick up a Honda Factory ride. In Desert racing, without a support team you are nothing out there, so I am blessed enough to have family and friends come out and help us out in different sections of the course and help us get the quad to the finish. As a matter of fact, the name Pirruñas came from my nickname and it’s a pretty noticeable name in Mexico.

Q. In 2015 you raced some pretty intense courses, can you tell us a bit about your experiences riding in desert races like the SCORE international series?

2015 was a great year for us! We won every single race in the SCORE series and to be honest it is not an easy task to accomplish. Those races are hard enough just making it to the finish line. Preparation is the key to get to the checkered flag and running durable products on your race quad such as Barker’s Exhaust is another factor in getting to the finish. The terrain is tough enough on your machine and a bit worse on your body so you have to be in top physical shape to be competitive. In order to win you must first finish so you just have to trust in your other co-riders and ride at a smooth fast pace.

Q. We understand that a ton of thought, modification, and maintenance goes into making a machine, and a man, race ready. Can you share a little bit about how you get yourself and your machine ready for a race?

As we all know Desert Racing is a true test for man and machine so preparation is the difference between winning and losing. We start prepping for our next race as soon as we cross the finish line of our last race. After every race, we sit down and write notes on what went wrong and how we can improve. Being in top physical riding shape is a priority for every rider in the team so that means a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in the gym as well as getting as much seat time as we can before the next race. As for the race quad, we tear it down all the way to the frame as well as the motor. Although Honda is known for their reliability, we tear the motor down and replace everything that is necessary to get us to the finish line for the next race. The only part we re-use on our quads is our Barker’s Exhaust. We put thousands of miles on them and they still retain their race condition. Most durable exhaust on the market in my book!

Q. It looks like 2016 is shaping up to be another big year for you and the Pirruñas Racing Team! Can you tell us about what this year has in store for you and what you are most looking forward to for this year?

After winning a championship in the SCORE International Series and in the CODE Offroad Series in 2015, we are setting sights in winning the SCORE International Pro Open Quad Class for 2016 and make our dream come true in running the 1A plate for 2017. Tons of money, time, and sweat will go into this goal but we have the team and sponsors to make it happen! One change that we'll be doing this year is that my brother Alonzo Dominguez will be focusing on prepping our race quads and pre-run quads instead of riding and being a mechanic at the same time. This will allow me to focus on logistics for the races and be a more competitive rider for the Pro Class. We also have a new team of riders for 2016 and they consist of myself; Gilberto Ramirez from Phoenix, AZ; Julio Banda Jr. from Mexicali, Baja California; Jose “Moño” Contreras from Tecate, Baja California; and Jorge “Wero” Contreras from Tijuana, Baja California. All these guys have what it takes to accomplish our goal in being Open Quad Pro champs for 2016! The whole team can’t thank Barker’s Exhaust enough for their durable exhaust systems and allowing us to come out on top!

 

To keep pace with Juan’s story as well as other sponsored riders, follow Barker's Exhaust on Facebook. 

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How To Install a Barker's Dual Exhaust on a 2015/2016 Yamaha Raptor 700

You've got your Barker's Dual Exhaust System in hand, so now what? Follow these handy installation instructions to help you remove the stock system and get your new system on your Raptor. 

Tools Needed:

  • 8MM, 10MM, 12MM and 13MM Socket or Wrench
  • Spring Puller

The first step is to remove your Stock Exhaust System. When removing it be careful not to lose or damage the exhaust gasket on the exhaust port of the motor. You will also re-use your two nuts used to hold the stock system on. Once you have removed the stock system you’ll want to unbolt the screw holding your front right fender in place. You’ll have to pull the fender out slightly to get the new header in place.

Start by inserting the split rear portion in first under your frame towards the rear shock. Once you have the rear in there you can carefully put the front into place by holding the fender away a bit as shown in these next few pictures.

Step One - Remove Stock Exhaust - Bend Parking Brake Slightly Down 1 Step One - Remove Stock Exhaust 1

 

 

 

 

 

Now before you can go any further you will need to Bend your Parking Brake Bracket down slightly to clear the pipe as shown in the picture above and below. (Red Arrow)

Step One - Remove Stock Exhaust - Bend parking break out of the way 2Step One - Remove Stock Exhaust 2

Once you have the Pipe in place, make sure you have the Exhaust Gasket in place and go ahead and slide the flange onto the two studs coming out of the head and only hand tighten at this point using the two nuts that came off your stock system.

You will want to snug them just tight enough to hold in place but be able to rotate the pipe freely yet.

Step Two - Install Barker's Exhaust 1

The next step is to remove the bolt shown above and then rotate the pipe until the tab lines up with the bolt hole. Go ahead and insert the bolt back into place and be sure to install the lock washer that we supplied into the hole shown above. You can tighten this bolt down but do not tighten the header nuts yet.

Now that the Header is mounted in place and still able to move, you’ll want to grab each can and megaphone assembly and install your billet clamps onto the cans. Find a nice clean soft place to work so you don’t scratch things up. Also before beginning, make sure you have the clamps with the Tabs facing away from the Barker’s tag.

Now spread the clamp apart and insert a small wedge in the slot to keep it spread apart. This could be a small chunk of wood or some heavy folded up cardboard just something to keep it spread apart.  Carefully slide the clamp over the can watching you don’t scratch it up. The clamp needs to be 5-5/8” from the Tip end of the can as shown here.

Step Two - Install Barker's Exhaust 2Step Two - Install Barker's Exhaust Billet measurements

Now that you have the clamps mounted to the cans go ahead and carefully insert each side into the slip joints on the front Header and start the bolt that holds the clamp but do not fully tighten. Repeat this step on the other side so you have both cans mounted but not tightened down. Bolt holes used are the front bolts on your rear grab bar.

Step Two - Install Barker's Exhaust 3Step Two - Install Barker's Exhaust 4

The next step is to install the Springs that connect the front and back halves of the pipes.

***NOTE*** Make sure you have Safety Glasses on and a Spring Puller to complete this step.  Be very careful when pulling the springs onto the tabs.

Now you should have everything installed but NOT tightened down anywhere.  Before tightening down, you are going to need to look at the split in front of the shock.  You need to center the split so it has equal clearance on each side of the shock. This is done by leaving the rear bolt in place and carefully rotating the front of the head pipe up or down to center it on the shock.

Once it is centered where you like it go ahead and snug down the Header nuts at the very front of the system. You can now tighten down the Billet Clamps that hold the cans in place making sure the cans are aligned equally also.

Final Note:  After you have ridden and warmed the pipe up a few times be sure to go back and re-tighten and check all bolts and connections to ensure everything stayed nice and tight. Now have fun and enjoy your new Barker’s Exhaust!

Barker's Dual Exhaust on 2015 Yamaha Raptor

 

Do you have any tips for installing a Barker's Dual Exhaust System on the 2015/2016 Raptor? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below!

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Which Yamaha YFZ450 Barker's Exhaust System is right for your machine?

The Barker's YFZ systems come in many shapes and sizes to work with the many variations Yamaha has developed over the years. There's the YFZ450 Single Exhaust System designed for 2004-2009 and 2012+ Carbureted models. There's also the YFZ450R Single Exhaust System designed for 2009+ EFI models. Also, if you're not quite ready for a full system, we offer a Slip On YFZ450 Exhaust that fits all year models, carb'd or EFI. Finally, if you have a modified system designed specifically for drag racing, we've got a YFZ450 Drag System

With all the variations and changes over the years to the YFZ 450 machines it can be confusing choosing the proper system for your machine. A lot of people were thrown for a loop when Yamaha went back to a carbureted system in 2012 and you'll find there isn't much information out there from exhaust companies. Luckily, Barker's customer Nate owns a 2012 Yamaha YFZ 450 carbureted model, and through working with him we've verified that our single exhaust for carbureted systems works with these newer carb'd models! Nate informed us that after installing the Barker's exhaust his 2012 Carb'd Yamaha YFZ 450 came to life. If you have this rare carb'd machine and want customize it, our exhaust system is the perfect upgrade. 

Barker's Yamaha YFZ 2012 Carbureted Exhaust System

Customers love these systems. Tim from Pennsylvania rides a 2014 YFZ 450R outfitted with our single exhaust. Tim says, "I just wanted to say that I am really happy with the power gains I received throughout the powerband. Also I really like the craftsmanship you guys put into your pipes." Tim sent us the photo below of his machine with his new Barker's Exhaust. 

Barker's Yamaha YFZ450R Exhaust System

Local customer Doug Booms also sent some photos of his Yamaha YFZ 450 outfitted with the Barker's Exhaust:

Barker's Yamaha YFZ 450 Exhaust System

 

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Overstock Sale: Yamaha Rhino 660 (While Supplies Last!)

So we may have been a little trigger happy and got carried away with the Rhino 660 stock here at Barker's Performance...

Sitting spotless and idle on our stock room shelves is an over-abundance of Barker's Rhino 660 exhaust systems. We know, it's a travesty! But why should our over-zealousness go to waste? We are certain that there must be a few Yamaha Rhino 660 fans out there in search of a stellar deal on a stellar exhaust system! That's why we are offering 30% off the Barker's Full Dual exhaust system for the Rhino 660 (only while supplies last). 

There is more to the Barker's Rhino 660 exhaust system than its current price tag, though. The Barker's Full Dual Exhaust System has been specially designed to deliver a noticeable increase in power and performance to your Rhino 660. Whether it be for taking on tough tasks or trails loaded with mud, the Barker's Full Dual Exhaust System will not disappoint! But don't take our word for it, check out what others have to say about the Barker's Full Dual Exhaust System for the Rhino 660.

 

"Outperformed other dual exhaust systems I have tried that made more noise but didn't have the POWER and TORQUE of the BARKER DUAL SYSTEM. I ran the Barker's Dual Exhaust System with an after-market intake kit and it resulted in a great improvement in power from idle to redline. Power you can feel!! The Barker's dual exhaust is of very good quality and you can tell there has been great attention to detail."

- Joe Wenta, Former Purchasing Manager at Marshall's Distributing, Inc. 

 

"High marks have got to be given to any company that builds an exhaust that is almost too pretty to want to get dirty, fits perfectly and gives you actual power gains that you can feel!  Barker’s Performance Exhaust did their homework when developing this system and the results show it. So if you’re looking to give your Rhino an extra boost of power the Barker’s Performance dual exhaust system is for you!"

- Rex Ostrander of ATV-UTVTECH.COM

 

Visit Barker's Full Dual Exhaust System for the Rhino 660 page to learn more!

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Fuel Injection 101: Choosing a Fuel Controller

Article written in collaboration with Alex at LaBaron’s Powersports

When installing any exhaust system, it is usually necessary to make changes to the fuel settings in order to yield the best results, and ensure that your engine is not running dangerously lean. Stock fuel settings, whether, carbureted or EFI, are generally far from ideal. The engine’s fuel requirements are deeply affected by large changes in the exhaust system, intake setup, or internal mods. While some machines are still within the safe limits, even with an aftermarket exhaust system installed, others are dangerously lean, or woefully rich, and exhibit drivability problems. This is why understanding your fuel system is crucial regardless of whose exhaust system you choose to run.

Whether your machine is fuel injected, or carbureted, we at Barker’s Performance Exhaust will do everything we can to provide you with accurate PC5 fuel maps and jetting specifications where possible. Due to the unique requirements that sometimes are necessary from machine to machine in different environments, it is usually beneficial to have your machine custom tuned by a reputable tuning facility.

Fuel Injection 101: What you need to know before choosing a fuel controller

EFI has taken over our sport. It has afforded countless people peace of mind and ease of maintenance, but there are many misconceptions about modern EFI systems, and what you don’t know can cost you money and horsepower.

Modern EFI systems on most motocross bikes, street bikes, and atv’s are technically PGFM or programmed fuel management. The computer reads from a factory programmed “map” of fuel values, in which throttle position (TPS) and engine RPM are the coordinates from which the computer gets its fuel value. These fuel values are slightly altered by the MAP sensor which determines engine load, and the IAT sensor, which determines air temperature. These stock maps are often very simple, and inaccurate. In all but a few machines, there is no O2 sensor that tells the computer that the engine is rich or lean. The modern four stroke engines see such drastic changes in operating conditions (rpm, throttle position, engine load, gear selection), carefully metered fuel control is essential for optimal performance. This is why it’s important, when modifying your machine’s power plant, to select a fuel controller what has a very high level of adjustability.

There are 2 major types of fuel management hardware. The Dobek TFI, and the Dynojet Power commander. The Dobek TFI utilizes a push-button interface that allows the user to adjust fuel trim in large areas (low, mid, high, WOT, as well as some blending options). These areas are adjusted via the buttons on the front of the unit. The Dobek TFI can be adjusted on a dynamometer by a professional tuner, or in the field by a savvy powersports hobbyist. This type of tuner will save you money over the Power Commander, and is adequate to tune in a machine with mild bolt-on modifications.

If you plan on doing internal engine mods in the future, or just want to squeeze every ounce of power out of your exhaust/intake combo, you may go the route of the Dynojet Power Commander 5. The power-commander utilizes a high-resolution fuel control map that allows precise 3-dimensional tuning of hundreds of pinpoint areas, based on both throttle position, and engine RPM. It has an accelerator pump feature, and can be integrated with Dynojet’s Autotune module, quick-shift system, boost pressure sensor, and nitrous map switch. This adds limitless tuning and integration possibilities for anyone who wants to do an extreme engine build, or otherwise demands the most precise fuel tuning system available. The caveat here is cost. The power commander not only costs more money, but in the event you cannot find an accurate pcv fuel map for your exact setup, you will be forced to bring your machine to a dynamometer shop and have your unit custom mapped. Tuning the power-commander in the field without an advanced data-logging system is nearly impossible, for even the upper echelon of power sports gurus.

Luckily, there are reputable dynamometer shops across the country that support the dynojet power-commander. We at Barker’s Exhaust, work tirelessly, along with LaBaron’s PowerSports of Almont, MI, to develop precisely tuned power-commander maps for nearly every exhaust system we produce. In many applications, we build maps using several intake configurations that we find work very well with our systems. But even so, if you have other engine mods, you may seek out a custom built map for your specific application.

Whichever route you go, an engine that is running at the proper air fuel ratio at every RPM, every throttle position, and every engine load level, will produce more horsepower everywhere, respond more quickly, and ultimately be more reliable, than one with hit-and-miss tuning.

Carburetion:
Carburetors have between 3-7 tunable circuits that meter fuel delivery based on engine RPM and load (vacuum) and throttle position (throttle valve height). These circuits are adjusted via a series of fixed orifices (jets) and adjustment screws. Although much simpler than EFI, complex modern carbs such as the FCR can still be tricky to tune.

We will strive to supply jetting recommendations for carbureted machines using our exhaust systems. Keep in mind, carburetors are much more sensitive to atmospheric conditions, and your environment may not be the same as ours. This may constitute further tuning, and if you do not feel confident doing so, you may also wish to seek the services of a reputable dynamometer tuning center.

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Suzuki RM-Z450 Exhaust System Independently Tested by LaBaron's Powersports

Alex from LaBaron's Powersports tested out the new Suzuki RM-Z450 full single exhaust from Barker's Performance and provided his feedback below as well as the Dyno results

"Very recently, we at LaBaron’s PowerSports have had the distinguished pleasure of testing the new Barkers exhaust system for the RMZ450. We had an opportunity to test the bike on our in-house chassis dynamometer. We were able to compare power output and air-fuel ratio back to back between the stock exhaust and Barkers’ full system to determine exactly how much power your dollar will buy you when installing a Barker’s system on new RMZ450. The following is a brief play-by-play commentary of what transpired in our dyno-cell.


The near brand spankin’ new 2014 RMZ450 was rolled onto our dyno, clad in fresh street tires so that our testing could be as accurate as possible. After a few warm-up runs, we discovered that the stock RMZ was making 46.87hp at 8750rpm and 30.46ft/lbs of peak torque at 7500rpm. The RMZ had smooth power delivery and crisp response, despite its excessively rich fuel ratios.


Once we had our data, we installed the Barker’s exhaust system on the yellow thumper. As always, the system installed cleanly, and just emanated quality from every square inch of beautifully crafted stainless steel tubing. The bike came to life with crisp exhaust tone that very obviously outclassed what we had experienced just moments before. The Barker’s exhaust increased power dramatically with a peak of 50.04hp at 8900rpm and 32.11ft/lbs of torque at 7500rpm. Not only were peak numbers increased substantially, but rear wheel horsepower was up over 2.5hp nearly everywhere! There was literally nowhere that the stock system could even come close to matching our new found power levels, save for a very small area just below the rev limiter. Thanks to the rich fuel mapping of the RMZ, there were no areas of the rev-range that experienced excessively lean air-fuel ratios. That being said, we have determined that the Barker’s system can be installed on the 2014 RMZ 450 without changing any fuel management settings. Even after installing the available quiet core insert, we continued to be impressed with what we saw. The quiet core yielded a noticeable drop in exhaust noise and delivered even more peak power! A 3/4hp increase for a total of 50.76hp at 8750rpm to be exact! This increase in the peak output did come at a small cost in the form of reduced mid-range power output that still trumped stock numbers everywhere.


Not being the type to rest on our laurels, we decided to install a Power Commander 5 and build a precision fuel map to see just how much better we could make the mighty RMZ. The tuning increased peak numbers by about a half horse-power, but gained as much as 2.5hp in the midrange and over-rev. Although it is not always necessary to re-map an EFI equipped bike to safely run an aftermarket exhaust, it will always yield increases in power, and is highly recommended.


In short, what we have seen out of Barker’s Exhaust is nothing short of amazing. If you are looking for a new exhaust system for your RMZ450, or any other motocross bike or ATV, look no further than Barkers."


-Alex Galeczka
Sr. Technician
LaBaron’s Powersports LLC

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